IN THE SPOTLIGHT: FACETASM MEN’S AND WOMEN’S SS 201
Spring was a busy season for Facetasm’s Tokyo-based designer Hiromichi Ochiai, who for the first time showed his men’s line-up in Paris and debuted his first full-fledged women’s collection.
On the women’s side, he proved that his hallmark juxtaposition of tailoring with sportswear references works equally well among his female audience. To wit, he artfully cut traditional men’s tailoring fabrics, making them appear classic from the front but totally subversive in the back with skin-revealing criss-cross or tie fastenings. Exaggerated cascades of flares, pleats and ruffles were incorporated into skirts and pants while lively checks in gauzy fabrics were fashioned into flowy trousers.
Ochiai’s man, instead, seeks more sartorial pieces than in the past. With gender neutrality, he wears elongated vests, taut jackets and fluid trousers and shorts, all accentuated by a streetwear vibe channeled by tube socks or checkered sneakers. On a more casual note, he opts for distressed denim matched to revisited preppy elements and tennis sweaters.
In general, Ochiai contends that his designs are always inspired by Tokyo and its buzzy city scene. And his strong mix of high-end fashion with street-youth culture certainly isn’t lost in translation.